YEAR'S BEST CHIANTI CLASSICO; Flavors of cherry, licorice and spice take on savory notes as this wine sits in the glass. The fruit (sangiovese with ten percent unnamed varieties) comes from the Fonterutoli estate in Castellina in Chianti, and the wine aged for one year in French oak barriques and tonneaux, half of which were new. Its dark and meaty flavors are a match for pasta in a rich ragù. - S.J.

YEAR'S BEST CHIANTI CLASSICO; The Mazzei family selects grapes for this wine (sangiovese with eight percent malvasia nera and colorino) from the 50 best parcels at the Fonterutoli estate, and ages the wine for 20 months in French oak barriques and tonneaux (60 percent new). The wine shows flavors of ripe black cherry leavened by notes of toasted nuts, tobacco and porcini mushrooms, the darkness of the flavors creating a warm, cozy impression that suggests a pairing with a hearty beef stew. - S.J.

The deep, rich red-plum nose sucks you into this powerful Brunello that has great fruit and polished, dry tannins that are beautifully in synch. Long, intense and rather complex finish. A great food wine for tonight, but this has the structure to hold for up to a decade. - J.S.

Light-weight, yet with dense tannins, offering plum, soy, leather and iron flavors. Vibrant, with a lingering finish and a dusty sensation at the end. Best from 2021 through 2032.  — BS

...The nose opens up to reveal red berries, pepper and violets. The palate offers similar restraint, with touches of leather and a minerality that builds on the finish. The resolute structure will carry it for at least a decade. - M.M.

Macerated cherry and plum flavors mingle with iron, meat, eucalyptus and tobacco flavors in this dense, beefy red. Compact, leaving a bitter almond note on the finish, yet staying fresh. Best from 2020 through 2032 - B.S.

New leather, truffle, sun-baked soil, menthol and grilled herb aromas practically jump out of the glass. The big, chewy palate delivers mature wild cherry, black raspberry, licorice and tobacco notes, set against a backdrop of firm, fine-grained tannins.  - K.O.

The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino offers an authentic interpretation of this celebrated appellation in southern Tuscany. The bouquet is rich and sophisticated with candied cherry, dried currant and spice... Varietal aromas of moist earth, button mushroom, grilled herb and blue flower ultimately add to the wine's timid complexity. Give this wine two or three years to flesh out. - M.L.

Bright and freshly fruity with plum, cherry and walnut undertones. Medium to full body and firm and silky tannins. Really beautiful and bright. One of the best wines in years from here. Drink or hold. - J.S.

...Fragrant berry aromas with hints of tarragon and black pepper, ceding to a rounded palate with full, chunky fruit, while lithe tannins should ensure a promising future. SH: Soft, creamy sweet-oak spice aromas lead to a powerful yet uniform palate of cherry fruit, with a long-lingering finish... All the elements complement each other beautifully. Drinking Window 2020 - 2029 - S.H.

A red with dried berry and tile character and hints of dried herb. Medium body. Lightly chewy tannins. Polished and fine. Drink now. Made from organic grapes. – J.S.

A daring wine with a ton of wild berry aromas and plenty of dry tannins packed into a sleek body. Crisp acidity (from the barbera). Drink now.  - J.S.

This is quite an assertively crunchy red with an earthy tobacco edge to the dried red and blue berries. The palate is smooth-honed, thanks to some years in bottle. A blend of cabernet and merlot. Drink now. - J.S.

A very intense carmenere with blueberries, burning spices and dried flowers, even hay. Full-bodied, tight and very flavorful. Needs time to come together, but impressive. Try in 2022. – J.S.

This has very supple, succulent red-plum and berry aromas with a vibrant, juicy feel to the bright, upbeat and glossy palate. Drink now. – J.S.

Rich, spicy aromas with a core of red plums, as well as a gently minty edge. The palate has round, succulent fruit flavors with a supple, fresh and juicy finish. Like the acidity here. Drink or hold. – J.S.